Sicily. Italian Marinas. |
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Sicily is the largest island (25,426 sq. km.) in
the Mediterranean; it is also the most important economically and has the
richest heritage of history and art. Its geographical particularity lies in its
compact but varied orographical structure, the uniformity of its rivers, the
typically Mediterranean climate and the insularity which has helped Sicily to
experience homogeneous historical development with originality of custom, art
and culture.
Together with the minor Aeolian islands (the Lipari), Ustica, Egadi, Pantelleria
and the distant Pelagie, Sicily is the most extensive region in Italy, though it
has only the fourth highest population. The population density is slightly
higher than the national average.
The island is bounded by the Tyrrhenian Sea to the north, the Ionian to the east
and the Sicilian Sea to the south-west; the Strait of Messina separates it from
Calabria.
Sicily is a triangle, a fact that prompted the
ancient Greeks to name it Trinacria, and is prevalently mountainous and hilly.
The highest mountains lie in the north-east, and are Mount Etna (3,340 m.)-the
biggest volcano in Europe, rising majestically between the Catania plain and the
Alcantara and Simeto river valleys-and the Sicilian Apennines, stretching from
the Strait of Messina to the Torto valley and clearly the continuation of the
Calabrian Apennines across the water.
The Sicilian Apennine range of mountains is divided into three groups: the
Peloritani, Nebrodi and Madonie. At the foot of the south slope of Etna lies the
Catania plain, delimited to the south by the Iblei hills, a wide expanse of high
ground culminating in Mount Lauro (986 m.). The middle of the island is a broken
succession of rolling hills, the Erei (lying among the Catania plain, the Iblei
and the Salso valley) and the so-called Altopiano Solfifero (the sulphur-bearing
upland), low rounded hills of Cenozoic sulphurous chalk rock. The west of the
island has a similar landscape of gentle hills and wide rolling uplands,
predominantly Cenozoic clay and sandstone, alternating in some places with
Mesozoic limestone formations: the nearby Egadi islands have the same geological
and morphological structures, while Ustica, the Aeolians and Pantelleria are
prevalently of volcanic origin. Other active volcanoes are Stromboli and Vulcano,
in the Aeolians.
The rivers are fast flowing with an irregular volume of water, flash flooding in
winter and long periods of drought. The principal rivers are the Simeto (which
channels the waters of the Dittaino, Gornalunga and Caltagirone), the Alcantara,
Anapo, Cassibile and Tellaro, on the Ionian side; the Torto and San Leonardo,
flowing into the Tyrrhenian Sea, and the Belice, Platani and Salso which empty
into the Sicilian Sea.
The climate is Mediterranean, with hot dry summers and mild wet winters.
Distance from the sea and the height of the larger mountains are the causes of
sharp differences in climate: on the coastal belt, the average annual
temperature is around 19 ?C, which drops to 13 ?C inland. The precipitations are
confined mainly to the winter months. Rainfall is low particularly on the
low-lying ground round Catania and Gela. Spontaneous vegetation on the coastal
areas consists of the evergreen shrubs of the Mediterranean scrub, dominated by
citrus and fruit orchards, with vines and olive trees higher up. Woodlands,
covering barely 8% of the territory, grow only in a few hilly areas.
Of extreme geomorphological and natural interest is Etna, the volcano that has
exerted such an influence on the landscape, the history and the life of those
living in its vicinity, and unlike the other volcanoes, it is famous for a
certain turbulence and a tendency to erupt, of ten without warning. One of
Etna's outstanding characteristics is the fascinating succession of types of
vegetation that grow on its slopes: Mediterranean scrub at a low altitude, which
gives way to a series of typically montane plant life farther up the slopes. The
lava at the edge of the sea is itself a splash of almost tropical shapes and
colours: rock samphire, stock, caper, broom, tree spurge and extravagantly
exotic plants such as the prickly pear and agave, that have perfectly
acclimatized. Then comes the carob and olive belt, a few remaining stands of
holly oak then, beyond 100 m., the Turkey oak and white oak woods, frequently
replaced by thick chestnut woods and a few limited stands of beechwood. Up the
mountain, the pinus laricio predominates, especially in the famous Linguaglossa
pinewood, together with the Etna birch and showy Etna broom.
The richest and most interesting forest environment in western Sicily is
Ficuzza-Rocca Busambra, south of Palermo, dominated by the majestic limestone
Rocca Busambra (1,613 m.), with a quantity of karst phenomena, marshes and small
lakes, pastures and meadows, with an ecological variety unique in that part of
Sicily.
One of the island's most picturesque coastal environments is Contrada Zingaro,
at the heart of the Gulf of Castellammare, towards Capo San Vito, where sheer
cliffs of Mesozoic limestone alternate with beautiful tiny coves, with glorious
intact seabeds. The vegetation is that of hot dry climates, partly steppe and in
part garigue.
One of Sicily's most important wetlands is Pantani di Vendicari, on the Gulf of
Noto, near Pachino and Capo Passero, where a wide variety of ecosystems (sea,
dunes, rock, scrub, freshwater and salt marshes, fens) concentrated in a limited
area and in contrast with its arid surroundings, make it a place of exceptional
scenic and natural interest.
There is an imbalance in the
distribution of population, the almost uninhabited inland zone clearly
contrasting with the largely populated coastal areas. There is still
considerable migration from the mountains and hills where the economy is
prevalently agricultural-pastoral, to the larger towns and industrialized areas
along the coast, where earning prospects are improved and living conditions
better. The most densely populated areas are the coastal belt near Catania and
Messina, around Palermo, Siracusa and the hinterlands of Agrigento and Licata;
the inland underpopulated areas include the highlands of the Sicilian Apennines,
Etna, the Erei, Iblei and other high ground in the west.
In the context of southern Italian dialects, Sicilian is divided into a number
of sub-dialects, those of Messina, Catania-Siracusa, south-east Sicily,
Nissa-Enna, Agrigento, Palermo and Trapani.
There is still a significant linguistic enclaveat Piana degli Albanesi (Palermo)
where Albanian is spoken. The quality of life in Sicily is conditioned by a
generally badly developed economy, characterized by a high rate of unemployment,
frequently leading to exploitation and crime. Nevertheless, in at least several
industrialized areas, the situation has greatly improved in recent years. From
the point of view of the environment, the ecological equilibrium has been
disturbed in a number of zones where petrochemical plant has been installed (Gela,
Augusta, Siracusa) but the real danger lies in indiscriminate speculative
housing construction with no respect for natural surroundings.
Of the economic sectors, the primary is still of great importance both in
quality and output, though characterized by a net distinction between the
low-productivity inland areas where wheat is extensively cultivated, and the
coastal belt, with its specialized cultivation of citrus fruit, orchards and
vineyards. The land is divided into a large number of very small holdings, with
the result that incomes are minimum. The most important crops are wheat,
carrots, aubergines, peppers, artichokes and courgettes. Citrus fruit (oranges,
lemons and mandarins) are typical of the region, which is undeniably the leading
citrus fruit producer in Italy.
Its international markets, however, are no longer safe from the keen competition
of other Mediterranean countries such as Spain. There are numbers of
plantations, especially of almonds and hazel nuts, as well as olive groves and
vineyards (table and wine grapes). There are still large numbers of sheep but
the fishing industry, though in difficulty as a consequence of overfishing
Mediterranean waters, is still one of the most important sectors in the regional
economy (tunny and swordfish fishing are traditional). There is a certain amount
of exploitation of underground resources, petroleum (Ragusa and Gela areas) as
well as potash and sulphur, though the latter is now declining.
In the industrial sector, petrochemicals (near Gela, Ragusa, Siracusa and
Augusta) is highly important, while other developed industries include building
and the transformation of agricultural and fish products. The principal
industrial areas lie around Catania (engineering, pharmaceuticals,
electrotechnical industry, food, building materials). Of the service industries,
the commercial sector is fragmented into small units, while the proportion of
employment in the public sector is excessive, especially in Palermo. Banking and
finance are active, especially in the larger centres. Tourism is clearly a major
surce of income, though still partly suffering from the lack of adequate hotel
and other facilities.
Regional communications are still unsatisfactory, though the construction of new
roads and highways has partially eased the situation. Links with mainland Italy
maintained by sea (Palermo, Messina and Catania) and air (Palermo-Punta Raisi,
Catania-Fontanarossa and Trapani-Birgi airports); construction of the bridge
over the Strait of Messina is a future project, planned for execution by the end
of the century.
With a coastline of some thousand kilometres,
Sicily offers the visitor the greatest imaginable variety of marine
environments: wide sandy beaches, sheer cliffs, remote tiny beaches, world
famous resorts, an interior enriched by the remains of ancient civilizations and
the survival of centuries-old traditions. A brief
description of those most interesting sights and settings not already mentioned
in the chapter on `Tourist Itineraries', must begin with resorts on the
south-east coast. Beyond Merzanemi on the Gulf of Noto, lie Portopalo di Capo
Passero and the beginning of a sandy littoral that stretches glistening in the
distance, swept by Mediterranean winds. The most interesting centres include
Pozzallo, Donnalucata, the ruins of ancient Camarina (6th century BC.), Gela
(with a visit to Capo Soprano and the archeological area), Falconara, Porto
Empedocle, near Agrigento (for the archeological area, see the description of
the city), the remains of Eraclea Minoa, Sciacca (also a spa), the exceptional
archeological complex of Selinunte, with splendid Doric temples, and the famous
fishing town of Mazara del Vallo. Beyond picturesque Marsala, famous for its
wine, the ancient Phoenician city of Mozia (on a small island) and the Trapani
littoral, the visitor reaches the north coast of Sicily, where it immediately
forms the Gulf of Castellammare, where some of the tonnare are still in use (tunny
fishing is a traditional activity here), then Terrasini, Isola delle Femmine,
Mondello (the Palermo beach), S. Flavia, Termini Imerese, amidst luxuriant
vegetation, and Cefalu, known for its great Norman cathedral (12th century).
Farther along lie S. Agata di Militello, Capo d'Orlando, the re mains of
Tyndaris, with the Greek theatre (3rd century BC.) and Milazzo, on a narrow
peninsula. One must not ignore the beauty of the smaller islands, ideal for
those seeking a holiday in contact with unspoilt Nature and far from the stress
of everyday life: the Aeolian islands, solitary Ustica, the Egadi, Pantelleria
and the Pelagie, close to Africa.
The interior of the region too has much to offer the tourist: in the east stands
Randazzo with the handsome cathedral of S. Maria (13th century), Adrano, in the
shadow of its Norman castle (11th century, archeological museum), Paterno in a
panoramic setting, amongst flourishing citrus groves, Lentini, and its nearby
archeological area, the remains of the Greek colony of Megara Hyblaea; the great
rupestrian necropolis of Pantalica, Palazzolo Acreide, with a 17th century
appearance, Noto with a fine Baroque Duomo, and Modica, with the Baroque church
of S. Giorgio. In the middle of the island lies the Casale Roman villa, near
Piazza Armerina, Calascibetta, and its 13th century church, Petralia Sottana,
with the church of the SS. Trinita, Castelbuono with the 12th century Castello
dei Ventimiglia, and Monreale, with its famous Duomo (12th century).